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Boats north are more common and popular with travellers especially the famous trip to the Thai border crossing in Huai Xi.

Travellers have the option of expensive luxury cruises, crowded backpacker slow boats, or brain-rattling and seemingly dodgy speedboats.

Luang Prabang has no shortage of either monasteries or wats (over thirty at the last count) and for many visitors this is the source of its charm. Located near the tip of the northern peninsular, it was built for the royal family in the 16th century and is a prime example of the area’s temple architecture.

Lao Airlines has come of age in a distinctly Laotian manner and buses are much better.

Back in 1998 an unfussy ' modern' airport - that boasted moulded plastic bucket seats and video screens - was constructed two kilometres from town.

Alternatively, hop on the back of a moto (motorcycle).

As a couple you’ll find your driver game to take you both – with your luggage – in a spirited bid to earn a bit more money and join that potential Asia-wide contest for Maximum Bodies on a Bike (at our last count: five.) There’s also the moto sidecar option which is good fun on smooth roads, but a bit rough on cobbles.

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Riding motorbikes in Southeast Asia always comes with the caveat - wear helmets and definitely don't wobble around on skiddy roads tanked up on an a few bottled of beer. For more information, explore the Timeless Luang Prabang site, which is a good resource and pick up a country overview at Tourism Laos.

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